FITTINGS AND DOORS
Step 16. Fittings and Doors.
Now your doors, windows and other fittings are installed such as roller door reveals, sisalation foil to exterior walls and gable ends. These things are done in preparation for external cladding and are designed to sit flush so it is important to finish this stage first.
Fitting of Windows and Doors
The windows and sliding doors will fit into the space provided in the frame and will have a small clearance between the stud and the inside of the reveals.
Packers can be cut and fitted into the clearance before fixing in the screws. Sit the window onto the the bottom trimmer and check that it is level. If it is not level, then pack until it is. Is a 10 mm or 6 mm lining packer (the same thickness as the Gyprock or villaboard lining), on the face of the wall and make sure that the window reveal is flush with the lining packer before fixing. Using 6 by 50 mm counter sunk screws fix through the bottom reveal into the bottom trimmer and screw home. Fix the screws 150mm in from each end of the window. Check the window for plumb against the stud, pack to suit then fix into the stud. Repeat for the other side remembering to keep the inside of the reveals flush with the lining packers.
All remaining screws can now be completed. Space screws approx 400mm apart. Fit the sliding door in the same manner as a window. This time though, the bottom reveal or sill will sit onto the concrete or steel floor system. Check that the floor is level. Fix the bottom screw at the side into the stud first on one side and then the other, then the top each side. Make sure everything is plumb and don't forget to use the internal lining packer.
Exterior Doors and Locks
Fit the external doors in the same manner as a window. the door will be pre-hung with architraves fitted to the inside. Lift the door info the opening (from the inside) and push in until the architraves press against the wall linings, Check that the frame is plumb and then fix through the architraves into the wall frame with 6 by 50mm counter sunk screws, five (5) per side. Open the door and from the outside slip packers between the back of the jamb and stud, and then screw up using the same screws. The jamb will extend out past the stud to cover the cavity on a brick house, or to finish the hardiplank against on a hardiplank house. Fit the door lock as per the manufacturer's specifications.
Roller Door Reveals
If you have a garage as a part of your new home, it will probably have a roller door. Three (3) lengths of 140 by 19 mm dressed pine will be supplied to finish off around the door opening. These lengths of timber are to be cut to length, and screwed to the face of the opening studs, and to the underside of the door head. Fix the two side jambs first and then cut the top between. Fix to the studs with 6 by 50 mm counter sunk screws making sure that the inside edge of the reveal is flush with the internal lining packer.
The outside walls and gable ends are to be covered with a layer of double-sided aluminum foil. Fit the foil to the lower part of the wall first, then to the upper part with the top layer overlapping the bottom layer. Fix the foil to the studs using a Sisalation washer and a 10 by 16mm hex head screw.
Cut and fit to the gable end trusses in the same manner as the walls. Notes to remember when fitting Sisalation foil are as follows; on a brick veneer home foil can be pulled tightly and fixed using washers and 10 by 16mm hex head screws. On a hardiplank or cedar home the foil must have a hollow between the studs of at least 50mm, and be fixed using washers and 10 by 16mm wafer head screws.
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Yes. All standard plans can be modified to suit your needs. You can change the number of rooms, increase or decrease the size of the house or if you prefer, you can bring your own plans for costing. more »
A full inclusions list can be found here. In general however, the kit includes all materials required for lockup but does not include on-site labour, transport and delivery charges, site survey, site clearing, PC items, concrete for footings, Electrical and plumbing etc. more »
Delivery areas include all Australian states and territories. Arrangements can also be made for international deliveries excluding some countries. more »
As an owner builder/manager you are effectively cutting out the builder and therefore should make a saving of 20% to 30%. If you choose to be more hands on and undertake some of the manual tasks such as erecting the walls and roof trusses, installing windows, doors and painting the internal and externals etc, your savings will be increased further. more »
The process to obtain an owner builders permit is usually very straight forward. There are a few requirements and depending on which state you are building in, may also require you to undergo a short course (usually a weekend course), either online or at a training school. In most states a small application fee is payable. Click here for more owner builder information. more »
Yes. Cyclonic kits can be purchased at an additional cost. These kits are manufactured with extra reinforcements that will make then suitable for areas prone to cyclones. All standard kits can be upgraded to cyclonic kits. All standard kits can be manufactured to meet with the cyclonic rating required for your area. more »
This is determined by the size of the home. Generally we can have the kit on site within three to five weeks from time of ordering. more »
The entire kit can be delivered to your site in a shipping container, or part container and part by truck. Delivery can also be made in stages upon request. It is up to you what is more suited to your build plan. more »
This depends upon the amount of labour and skill level. As a guide, a non-skilled owner builder can erect frames and roof trusses for an average size home in two to three days then the remainder of the build is similar to that of normal build times. A smaller kit can be built to lock up within a month. Larger, more complex homes will take longer. You should allow ten to twelve weeks on site for an average home. more »