Step 11. Erecting The Wall frames.
Now you're making head way! This step is probably the quickest, easiest and most impressive of all. Just like building a big Lego toy, you just mark out where the walls go on the slab of floor system and put them all together. If you've got a two story house you'll fix the mid floor in place as well and finish the second floor walls.
It is important in the case of a concrete slab home the concrete be complete before the frames are delivered.
All transport costs are to be met by the owner unless it has been requested that they be included in the contract. One of our representatives will discuss delivery dates and transport requirements with you. You may decide to handle the transportation yourself, but if any problems arise, we can recommend a transport company that can assist and has experience in moving steel frames.
Please note: Chains must not be used to lift off or tie down frames, as they only damage the steel components. All frames required on site for weekend work must be uplifted from the factory by the proceeding Thursday as it is sometimes difficult to get reliable transport on a Friday.
Walls are marked clearly to match plans supplied to make finding the correct frame quick and easy.
The fixing of wall frames on a steel floor system or a concrete slab is basically the same. The only real difference is the components used. Mark out the floor the same as your plans using a chalk line or marker and stand the walls in position positioning them in line with the marks you have made. Remember that the frames should be flush with the edge of the slab or floor system. Fix down through the bottom plate of the frame and into the slab or Continuous Blocking Plate (CBA) or End Joist of the floor system. Carry this out as you go and it will help stop the walls from slipping off the floor if a wall is bumped by mistake. Remember to always use a level when joining walls together. You might need to wait until you are sure you have everything lining up before you go fixing things using more permanent fixtures such as bolting into slabs etc.
Before standing the exterior walls on brick veneer houses, lay a strip of polyflash damp proofing (code 50) under where the wall will fit. Let the extra width hang outside as this will go under the first layer of bricks. The excess will cut off later. Polyflash will not be required on Hardiplank houses as a special flashing will be used.
The steel frame system is computer generated and testing has proven that the wall frames will be within 2mm of completely square. Therefore, when the two frames meet at the outside corner they should be plumb.
After all external and internal walls have been erected and fully anchored down, the bottom plate can be cut out at doorways. This can be done at anytime, but it is advisable to remove the plate as soon as possible. Use an angle grinder to make the cuts.
With two story homes, there may be some columns that the wall plates may have to trim around and also some beams that may have to be placed in position. After fitting the mid floor, erect the top storey wall frames, as per the fixing details on a steel floor system.
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Yes. All standard plans can be modified to suit your needs. You can change the number of rooms, increase or decrease the size of the house or if you prefer, you can bring your own plans for costing. more »
A full inclusions list can be found here. In general however, the kit includes all materials required for lockup but does not include on-site labour, transport and delivery charges, site survey, site clearing, PC items, concrete for footings, Electrical and plumbing etc. more »
Delivery areas include all Australian states and territories. Arrangements can also be made for international deliveries excluding some countries. more »
As an owner builder/manager you are effectively cutting out the builder and therefore should make a saving of 20% to 30%. If you choose to be more hands on and undertake some of the manual tasks such as erecting the walls and roof trusses, installing windows, doors and painting the internal and externals etc, your savings will be increased further. more »
The process to obtain an owner builders permit is usually very straight forward. There are a few requirements and depending on which state you are building in, may also require you to undergo a short course (usually a weekend course), either online or at a training school. In most states a small application fee is payable. Click here for more owner builder information. more »
Yes. Cyclonic kits can be purchased at an additional cost. These kits are manufactured with extra reinforcements that will make then suitable for areas prone to cyclones. All standard kits can be upgraded to cyclonic kits. All standard kits can be manufactured to meet with the cyclonic rating required for your area. more »
This is determined by the size of the home. Generally we can have the kit on site within three to five weeks from time of ordering. more »
The entire kit can be delivered to your site in a shipping container, or part container and part by truck. Delivery can also be made in stages upon request. It is up to you what is more suited to your build plan. more »
This depends upon the amount of labour and skill level. As a guide, a non-skilled owner builder can erect frames and roof trusses for an average size home in two to three days then the remainder of the build is similar to that of normal build times. A smaller kit can be built to lock up within a month. Larger, more complex homes will take longer. You should allow ten to twelve weeks on site for an average home. more »