Step 18. Fitting Internal Linings.
Getting the plaster board up onto your internal frames is a great feeling as the house slowly becomes a home. Many people select to hire a professional for this job, but there are DIY instructions available from many of the plaster suppliers. Joining and finishing is a little tricky but many owner builders do make the choice to get hands on so it is another place to save big dollars.
The Internal Linings Process:
- Fix bath and shower trays.
- Plumber to connect bath and shower trays, check all flashings to wet areas and windows.
- Fix gyprock linings to ceilings and walls. Fix villaboard to wet areas.
- Set all Gyprock and villaboard joints and sand back.
- Fix Gyprock cornice.
Bath and Shower Fitting
Bath and shower trays: Before any linings can be fixed into the bathroom or ensuite, the bath and or shower trays will have to be fitted as required. There will be bath support nog welded into the walls to support the bath and the same for the shower tray. You will have to build a cradle or front support to close in the bath and support the front edge.
This will be constructed using 75 by 25 or 100 by 25 timber. You will also have to fix some short lengths to the floor to be able to fix the base of the cradle.
When positioning the cradle, make sure to allow for the thickness of tiles and wall linings which have to fix to the front of the cradle support. After the bath cradle framing is completed, make sure to notify the plumber to connect the waste before fixing the lining. Follow the same set up and rules for a shower tray.
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Yes. All standard plans can be modified to suit your needs. You can change the number of rooms, increase or decrease the size of the house or if you prefer, you can bring your own plans for costing. more »
A full inclusions list can be found here. In general however, the kit includes all materials required for lockup but does not include on-site labour, transport and delivery charges, site survey, site clearing, PC items, concrete for footings, Electrical and plumbing etc. more »
Delivery areas include all Australian states and territories. Arrangements can also be made for international deliveries excluding some countries. more »
As an owner builder/manager you are effectively cutting out the builder and therefore should make a saving of 20% to 30%. If you choose to be more hands on and undertake some of the manual tasks such as erecting the walls and roof trusses, installing windows, doors and painting the internal and externals etc, your savings will be increased further. more »
The process to obtain an owner builders permit is usually very straight forward. There are a few requirements and depending on which state you are building in, may also require you to undergo a short course (usually a weekend course), either online or at a training school. In most states a small application fee is payable. Click here for more owner builder information. more »
Yes. Cyclonic kits can be purchased at an additional cost. These kits are manufactured with extra reinforcements that will make then suitable for areas prone to cyclones. All standard kits can be upgraded to cyclonic kits. All standard kits can be manufactured to meet with the cyclonic rating required for your area. more »
This is determined by the size of the home. Generally we can have the kit on site within three to five weeks from time of ordering. more »
The entire kit can be delivered to your site in a shipping container, or part container and part by truck. Delivery can also be made in stages upon request. It is up to you what is more suited to your build plan. more »
This depends upon the amount of labour and skill level. As a guide, a non-skilled owner builder can erect frames and roof trusses for an average size home in two to three days then the remainder of the build is similar to that of normal build times. A smaller kit can be built to lock up within a month. Larger, more complex homes will take longer. You should allow ten to twelve weeks on site for an average home. more »